I started when I was really young — since I was this size. My parents always had businesses running in Lisbon, so I grew up around it. I started very young next to my dad at the counter, taking coffees, sodas, that kind of stuff. Then around 13–14, I started being next to my mom in the kitchen, making desserts and similar things. After that, I went to culinary school — and that was the start of my path.
INTERVIEW #4
Maybe we can start with your journey — why you started cooking, when?
So you always knew you wanted to cook?
Before, my dream was split between being a cook and working as a designer. But since my family worked in hospitality, I always felt food was the right direction.
So design or cooking — for you cooking is also about creativity, right? Lots of discipline as well… or mostly creativity?
No, I think I was always a very methodical cook, not so creative. And I think to be creative, you need to be methodical first. You need to master prep and organization — then you’ll have space for creativity.
TALKS: Zé Paulo, Chef at O Velho Eurico
"It’s chaotic outside, but very precise inside — especially in the food. We take a lot of time thinking about dishes and menu construction."
You talk a lot about traditional food — it’s central to your cooking style. When did you feel you could blend tradition with novelty? Or was it always there?
It actually started at Eurico. At first, we did dishes in a very traditional way. With time, we became more creative. Now we want to make things fun — to take Portuguese food and give it a twist. Because sometimes, without nostalgia, Portuguese food can feel a bit heavy or inaccessible. So we try to make it cooler, more enjoyable.
So this is like “traditional 2.0”? And where does the twist come — textures, flavors, service?
Definitely textures, new flavors, balance. Portuguese food is very intense — I love it — but since we serve dishes to share, we need balance across the menu. That’s the biggest challenge.
Did you ever remove dishes because they were too complex or didn’t work?
Yes, definitely. We serve a lot of people, so even if we want to do very creative dishes, sometimes they take too much time in prep or service. Here, we need simplicity — but done really well.
The whole place [Eurico] feels intentionally imperfect — casual, almost careless. Is that organic or constructed?
It’s half of me. I’m very perfectionist but also chaotic. This place reflects the people working here. Sometimes it’s more organized, sometimes more chaotic — but always intentional.
So it’s curated chaos — you’re still in control?
Yes. It’s chaotic outside, but very precise inside — especially in the food. We take a lot of time thinking about dishes and menu construction. Then we allow ourselves to have fun.
When building a menu — what matters more: contrast or harmony?
Balance. Portuguese food is heavy and strong, so we try to balance cold dishes, hot dishes, snacks, desserts. Desserts are hardest — I have a sweet tooth, and Portuguese desserts are very rich — egg yolks and sugar — so finding balance is tricky.
What desserts do you have right now?
We always try to include something fresh — like ice cream or fruit — to clean the palate after the meal.
How important is seasonality for you?
Very important. We change the menu seasonally — about every three months.
What is louder — the kitchen or the room?
The people. Outside is buzzing — there’s always a line. Inside the kitchen, we are very focused.
There’s always a waiting line — is it important for you that people can still get a table?
Yes. We’re usually fully booked for 2–3 months, but we always keep space for walk-ins.
I like that feeling myself — deciding last minute, waiting, having a drink or snack. It’s part of the experience.
What time does Lisbon eat?
Around 12 during the week, and later — around 2 — on weekends.
What’s the biggest misunderstanding tourists have about Portuguese food?
Offal — liver, heart, kidneys. It’s very nostalgic for us but strong in flavor, so it’s hard to explain or “sell” sometimes. But we try to make these parts shine — they’re actually some of the tastiest.
You mentioned earning trust first — “bem feito” — and then innovation. Is that key for you?
Yes. At the beginning, we focused on doing traditional dishes really well. After a few years, people trusted us — and now we can introduce twists
Are your guests mostly locals or tourists?
Right now, about 50–60% tourists and the rest locals. I’m happy with that balance.
You said you always want to do better — what does “better” mean for you?
There’s always more to learn — techniques, products, hospitality. We’re young. I mean we can always do better, we are super ... we are doing a super cool job right now I think tomorrow we will do it so much better because we have more experience doing it.
Where do you learn from?
Other chefs, other places, my team. I’m not building this alone — we learn from each other every day.
What’s important for someone to be part of your team?
They need to feel this environment — to fit into this energy.
Is there an ingredient you’re still struggling with?
Kidneys. They’re challenging — texture and strong flavor — we’re trying to make them more delicate.
An ingredient you might be overusing?
Onion, garlic, olive oil. We use them for everything — sometimes we try to avoid them to create new flavors.
Is creativity spontaneous for you? Or trained?
Both — but mostly trained. You need fundamentals first. I read, research, eat out — creativity needs methodology underneath.
In Lisbon’s gastronomy scene — is there competition or community?
Community. I feel a lot of respect and support — not competition.
What do Lisbon diners still lack?
Democratic fine dining — high-level food in a more relaxed format.
So the line between fine dining and casual still exists?
Yes — but people want more casual, creative, high-quality places.
When you start a dish — what comes first: product, emotion, memory?
Usually a traditional recipe or something nostalgic. Then product, texture, service — it develops from there.
Where do you find these recipes?
Books, stories, family memories. Right now, I’m interested in very old Lisbon recipes — like from the 60s. Simple dishes people don’t remember anymore.
Is your identity fused with the restaurant? If you leave — does the place change?
Yes. Eurico evolves as I evolve. Next year I’ll be different — and the restaurant will be different too.
Do you want to open a fine dining place in the future? Why?
Yes — for more creativity. Here we serve around 200 people a day — it limits how experimental we can be. In a smaller place, I could explore more — a different kind of creativity.
TALKS: Zé Paulo, Chef at O Velho Eurico
"It’s chaotic outside, but very precise inside — especially in the food. We take a lot of time thinking about dishes and menu construction."
INTERVIEW #4
Maybe we can start with your journey — why you started cooking, when?
I started when I was really young — since I was this size. My parents always had businesses running in Lisbon, so I grew up around it. I started very young next to my dad at the counter, taking coffees, sodas, that kind of stuff. Then around 13–14, I started being next to my mom in the kitchen, making desserts and similar things. After that, I went to culinary school — and that was the start of my path.
So you always knew you wanted to cook?
Before, my dream was split between being a cook and working as a designer. But since my family worked in hospitality, I always felt food was the right direction.
So design or cooking — for you cooking is also about creativity, right? Lots of discipline as well… or mostly creativity?
No, I think I was always a very methodical cook, not so creative. And I think to be creative, you need to be methodical first. You need to master prep and organization — then you’ll have space for creativity.
You talk a lot about traditional food — it’s central to your cooking style. When did you feel you could blend tradition with novelty? Or was it always there?
It actually started at Eurico. At first, we did dishes in a very traditional way. With time, we became more creative. Now we want to make things fun — to take Portuguese food and give it a twist. Because sometimes, without nostalgia, Portuguese food can feel a bit heavy or inaccessible. So we try to make it cooler, more enjoyable.
So this is like “traditional 2.0”? And where does the twist come — textures, flavors, service?
Definitely textures, new flavors, balance. Portuguese food is very intense — I love it — but since we serve dishes to share, we need balance across the menu. That’s the biggest challenge.
Did you ever remove dishes because they were too complex or didn’t work?
Yes, definitely. We serve a lot of people, so even if we want to do very creative dishes, sometimes they take too much time in prep or service. Here, we need simplicity — but done really well.
The whole place [Eurico] feels intentionally imperfect — casual, almost careless. Is that organic or constructed?
It’s half of me. I’m very perfectionist but also chaotic. This place reflects the people working here. Sometimes it’s more organized, sometimes more chaotic — but always intentional.
So it’s curated chaos — you’re still in control?
Yes. It’s chaotic outside, but very precise inside — especially in the food. We take a lot of time thinking about dishes and menu construction. Then we allow ourselves to have fun.
When building a menu — what matters more: contrast or harmony?
Balance. Portuguese food is heavy and strong, so we try to balance cold dishes, hot dishes, snacks, desserts. Desserts are hardest — I have a sweet tooth, and Portuguese desserts are very rich — egg yolks and sugar — so finding balance is tricky.
What desserts do you have right now?
We always try to include something fresh — like ice cream or fruit — to clean the palate after the meal.
How important is seasonality for you?
Very important. We change the menu seasonally — about every three months.
What is louder — the kitchen or the room?
The people. Outside is buzzing — there’s always a line. Inside the kitchen, we are very focused.
There’s always a waiting line — is it important for you that people can still get a table?
Yes. We’re usually fully booked for 2–3 months, but we always keep space for walk-ins.
I like that feeling myself — deciding last minute, waiting, having a drink or snack. It’s part of the experience.
What time does Lisbon eat?
Around 12 during the week, and later — around 2 — on weekends.
What’s the biggest misunderstanding tourists have about Portuguese food?
Offal — liver, heart, kidneys. It’s very nostalgic for us but strong in flavor, so it’s hard to explain or “sell” sometimes. But we try to make these parts shine — they’re actually some of the tastiest.
You mentioned earning trust first — “bem feito” — and then innovation. Is that key for you?
Yes. At the beginning, we focused on doing traditional dishes really well. After a few years, people trusted us — and now we can introduce twists
Are your guests mostly locals or tourists?
Right now, about 50–60% tourists and the rest locals. I’m happy with that balance.
You said you always want to do better — what does “better” mean for you?
There’s always more to learn — techniques, products, hospitality. We’re young. I mean we can always do better, we are super ... we are doing a super cool job right now I think tomorrow we will do it so much better because we have more experience doing it.
Where do you learn from?
Other chefs, other places, my team. I’m not building this alone — we learn from each other every day.
What’s important for someone to be part of your team?
They need to feel this environment — to fit into this energy.
Is there an ingredient you’re still struggling with?
Kidneys. They’re challenging — texture and strong flavor — we’re trying to make them more delicate.
An ingredient you might be overusing?
Onion, garlic, olive oil. We use them for everything — sometimes we try to avoid them to create new flavors.
Is creativity spontaneous for you? Or trained?
Both — but mostly trained. You need fundamentals first. I read, research, eat out — creativity needs methodology underneath.
In Lisbon’s gastronomy scene — is there competition or community?
Community. I feel a lot of respect and support — not competition.
What do Lisbon diners still lack?
Democratic fine dining — high-level food in a more relaxed format.
So the line between fine dining and casual still exists?
Yes — but people want more casual, creative, high-quality places.
When you start a dish — what comes first: product, emotion, memory?
Usually a traditional recipe or something nostalgic. Then product, texture, service — it develops from there.
Where do you find these recipes?
Books, stories, family memories. Right now, I’m interested in very old Lisbon recipes — like from the 60s. Simple dishes people don’t remember anymore.
Is your identity fused with the restaurant? If you leave — does the place change?
Yes. Eurico evolves as I evolve. Next year I’ll be different — and the restaurant will be different too.
Do you want to open a fine dining place in the future? Why?
Yes — for more creativity. Here we serve around 200 people a day — it limits how experimental we can be. In a smaller place, I could explore more — a different kind of creativity.
